Throttle Cable, throttle body, and the hood

Somethings, I had almost forgotten about....

Our throttle cable had, since we first got the car, begun to unravel at the ends. At first, it just one or two little wires broke out of the bunch that make up the cable. But each time it was attached/detached it seemed to suffer a bit more damage at one or both ends.

Finally, it was down to a couple of tiny wires at the gas pedal, and frankly I was a bit worried about how to replace it.

But it turned out to be no big deal. The cable is a Lokar part. So I went to Summit Racing and picked up two different length cables, since the car is/was currently being housed about 180 miles away, I wasn't sure of the actual length needed. But it seemed like 36" or 48" was about right, and as it turned out, the 36" cable worked great. It has been a couple of months, and I still need to take the 48" cable, package unopened, back to Summit.... But these days, I don't have much a life, so maybe tomorrow....

But back to the actual throttle body replacement. All we had to do was to replace the fraying inner cable, and not the securely mounted outer sheath. Nothing more than a 20 minute replacement, and all is good again. Be sure to check the ends on yours.

We had considered, turning the throttle body around so it looked like it was correct. I don't know if you have looked at yours, but the primaries and secondaries, are reversed over what you would expect. But considering that the runners on manifold are all the same, it really doesn't matter. And, the throttle body is on the way it is, to avoid interfering with the rear hood cross brace. So turning it around, not only won't make any difference, other than possibly benefit of making the throttle cable routing shorter and straighter, it won't work without a change to the the rear hood bracket.

On still another topic, Is anybody else really tired of messing messing with 12 Dzus fasteners to open the hood, and then messing with them all over again to close and secure the hood? This is especially frustrating when you go for a fuel check, and need to get it off in a hurry, and then back on and at least a couple of fasteners secured to get back to the pits. And each time you close or open one of the Dzus fasteners, you risk either bending the flimsy brackets, or the actual fastener base.

Well, coming up a little later, maybe in a couple of weeks, will be an approach to attaching your hood, so that it won't fly off as ours did in Las Vegas. Once we get our new hood, I will outline the "better way", to secure it, and allow much for both easier latching and removal. And although we hope that our new hood will come without any holes, so that we put our own where we want them, I will make sure that I give instructions that can be used on an existing hood where the dozen fasteners already exist, and for a uncut hood.

David